Crash course in winter squash
Do you know your squashes from your gourds from your pumpkins? Or which ones you can eat and which are better left for carving or decorating? They all belong to the family Cucurbitaceae and are all technically classified as fruits. Winter squash is soft-shelled and delicious (sweeter than summer squash) while gourds are hard-shelled and meant for ornamental purposes. There are hundreds of different varieties of winter squash and some varieties are confusingly called pumpkins. With so much information to wade through, I’ve put together a crash course in winter squash that outlines some basics of how to choose, store (and cut!) this versatile winter stable. I’ve also included suggestions on how to prepare five of my favorite varieties.
Squash varieties from left to right: spaghetti, delicata, butternut, acorn and carnival
If you’re somewhat new to all the squash available, it can be a bit intimidating when choosing from the pile of green, yellow and orange variegated options in the produce section, not to mention how to actually cut the thing and figure out what you’re going to make with it once you get it home. I’ve historically been guilty of sticking to the common acorn squash. (Blame it on my sheltered upbringing) but I’m happy to say I’ve expanded my pool of squash. The five varieties I’ve been cooking with include acorn, butternut, carnival, delicata and spaghetti squash.
Let’s get started.
Choosing and storing squash
The rule for choosing squash is pretty much the same no matter which winter squash you are buying. Look for a squash with a firm exterior and heavy for its size. Pretty (uncompromised) squash are the best squash. Choose one that’s free from soft spots, cracks or blemishes.
Store your squash in a cool, dry and mostly dark place. Your pantry or a drawer in your kitchen or mudroom may be ideal. Don’t store in the refrigerator and if it gets too cold in your neck of the woods, don’t keep squash in the garage. Squash stores best at 50°F and most will last for 2-4 months. It’s ideal to use them within a month. You’ll know your squash are turning bad if they start to get soft.
Cutting and peeling squash
The larger the squash, the more unwieldy it is to cut. Here are a few tips:
Place the squash in the microwave for 1 to 4 minutes depending on the size. One minute should do it for an acorn but it may take 4 minutes for a large spaghetti squash. You can poke a few holes in it first with a knife or fork. This will soften it and make cutting easier.
Make sure you have a large, sturdy knife with some “heft” to it. A sharp 10” chef knife is good.
Cut the ends of the squash off first so you can “stand” it up nice and balanced on your cutting surface. Make sure your board is on a non-slip surface.
Then slice the squash in half. For butternut squash (if not stuffing), cut at the neck.
To peel squash, let it cool enough to handle and then use a razor-sharp Y-peeler. Peeling or not peeling your squash depends on the variety and how you are preparing it. Smaller squash like delicata, acorn and carnival are edible. Other larger squashes, such as butternut, need peeled unless you plan to scoop out the flesh for a soup or purée.
Preparing and eating squash
Now it’s time to prepare and eat your favorite squash. Here are five common varieties with recipe inspiration for each.
Acorn squash may be the most well-known or familiar winter squash. Acorn squash are on the small size and weigh about one to two pounds. The dark green (often with some orange) skin and orangish yellow inside and have a mild, slightly sweet flavor.
There’s no reason to peel acorn squash and you really don’t need a recipe. Cut it in two, scrape out the seeds and strings. Then rub with olive oil or butter, sprinkle on some salt and pepper, and roast on a baking sheet in the oven at 375°F for 45-60 minutes. Poke a fork through the flesh to check for doneness. Or you can take a shortcut. Add a ¼ inch of water in a glass pan and place your cut acorn flesh side down and microwave for 10 minutes. This works great.
Either way, after baked, flavor your squash how you wish. I like to add a pat of butter, sprinkle with cinnamon and brown sugar or maple syrup and you have a kid-pleasing side dish. Take it a step further and stuff your squash. You can use long grain rice, quinoa or stuffing (from a box, I won’t judge). Dried cranberries or chopped apples, and chopped pecans, walnuts or hazelnuts are tasty add-ins. You could also add cooked chicken or sausage. If you prefer it to be less sweet, try savory spices and parmesan or feta cheese. Alternately, you can scoop out the flesh into a serving dish and top with spices, butter, nuts and cranberries or pomegranate arils. The color contrasts magnificently against the orange flesh. Add a little feta, flaky salt and pepitas.
Butternut squash is an all-purpose versatile squash that’s pear-shaped with a large neck and fat bottom. It has smooth, creamy apricot or tan color skin with bright orange flesh and few seeds. Butternut is one of the sweetest winter squash, so no wonder it’s one of my favorites. While you can certainly stuff butternut squash, there are so many ways to enjoy it out of the skin. (Tip: you can also buy it frozen or canned to enjoy all year round.)
It’s perfect for roasting or sautéing, eating hot or cold. Googling butternut squash recipes comes up with infinite possibilities for soups and pastas. Some of my favorite less-expected ways to eat butternut include:
As an appetizer. Butternut and goat cheese crostini (from The Forest Feast Gatherings). Yum. Peel and cube (about 1/4 “) butternut squash. Sauté in olive oil and salt & pepper over medium high heat for about 10-12 minutes. You can do this in advance. When ready to serve, slice a baguette. Spread on a baking sheet, drizzle with olive oil, liberally salt and broil 2 minutes until golden brown. Spread goat cheese (or you can use burrata or mozzarella) on crostini slices. Top with several butternut squash cubes. Add fresh thyme and flaky sea salt. You can add a drizzle of good olive oil and a grind of black pepper.
In Black Bean and Butternut Squash enchiladas. I often use butternut squash instead of sweet potatoes in this recipe. The colors and flavors in this dish are amazing.
On pizza! These two recipes are on my list to try this fall. Can’t wait. Butternut squash and prosciutto pizza and Butternut squash (instead of pumpkin) pizza crust with arugula and prosciutto.
Carnival squash appears to be a lesser known variety but has been available at a small farm near me. Carnival is a cross between the sweet dumpling squash and the acorn squash. I like them for their cute small-squat shape and they typically can be eaten the same way as an acorn or butternut squash. No need to peel. The outside showcases a combo of orange, yellow and green stripey colors with a firm, pale orange flesh. They have a large and fibrous seed cavity with stringy pulp and lots of flat, beige seeds. Scoop all that out and roast in the oven or use the microwave like described with the acorn. It tastes somewhat nutty and buttery with a nice sweetness, so really only needs a little butter or olive oil and salt and pepper.
Inspired by this Roasted Maple Walnut Carnival Squash, I popped the squash in the oven with the chicken I was roasting. I had some homemade chunky applesauce that I warmed up and stuffed in the cavity, added some chopped walnuts. And what the heck, gave it a little drizzle of maple syrup.
Delicata squash is a small oblong squash with a thin, edible skin in creams and yellows with green stripes. The flesh is orangish yellow and tastes mild and creamy similar to a sweet potato. What I love about delicata is how pretty they are when you slice them. Delicately scalloped orange half moons. Plus, their size makes them easy to prepare. Just slice the squash in half and scoop out the seeds. Cut into ½ inch slices and spread out on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil, salt and pepper. Feel free to be creative and add your favorite seasonings. I love a mix of sweet and savory and sometimes add a few red pepper flakes.
I recently made Maple Glazed Roasted Delicata Squash and Brussels Sprouts but swapped red onion for shallot and added chunks of rainbow chard, both leftover in my fridge. And because I like pepitas on everything, I sprinkled those on top with feta and the pomegranate arils.
For a more savory option, delicata is tasty with cilantro and turmeric or cumin. You can’t go wrong with delicata – slice it, season to your taste and bake on a sheet pan for 20-30 minutes.
Spaghetti squash is such a fun squash! It’s a much larger squash ranging from a round to cylindrical shape and from pale cream to bright yellow. Spaghetti squash is a tough one to cut, so use the microwave to soften it. Don’t try to be a champion (you know who you are) with your knife. When you cook the squash, with the touch of a fork the flesh turns into strands that resemble spaghetti. Hence its name. But really it looks more like angel hair pasta. With a very mild, not sweet taste, It has a fragile, tender texture and pairs nicely with light sauces that you’d typically use on angel hair such as pesto, cacio e pepe or marinara. Stay away from heavy meat sauces. It makes a great gluten-free pasta option and with the addition of other vegetables it’s a complete pasta primavera vegetarian option.
No need to peel the spaghetti squash. Cut as described and scrape out seeds. Rub with olive oil and salt and pepper. Place cut-side down on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet. Bake at 375°F for about 40 minutes.
This recipe for garlic parmesan spaghetti squash is delicious. I also want to try it with a mixture of olive oil, garlic, tomatoes, basil and parmesan. Or how yummy would it be with a little cream and bacon to resemble a carbonara?
Okay, class over. Few lessons learned: Use a sharp knife. Keep your squash in the dark. Many winter squash taste similar and are interchangeable. You can season them to be sweet, savory or even spicy. There’s lots of room to be creative. Add some crunch with a variety of nuts. Experiment with oils and fresh herbs. Instead of cinnamon, try nutmeg, cardamom or allspice. Your homework: go on a squash-collection spree and try some new recipes. Make them gourd-geous.