Fika with Cardamom Rolls
A few years ago on a work trip to Germany, I visited a college friend who lived in Munich. One afternoon as we walked around the city, she suggested we enjoy the German tradition of “kaffee und kuchen" (coffee and cake). This may have been my favorite moment of the trip! This afternoon ritual where friends, family or coworkers meet at a café or one’s house to enjoy coffee and cake while socializing is Germany's answer to Swedish fika. Both traditions are meant for slowing down and taking a break. Fika (pronounced fee-ka) is both a verb and a noun. In Scandinavian countries, cardamom buns or rolls are popular for fika. Variations of these sweet buns gained popularity in the U.S. when in 2019 the Swedish bakery Fabrique opened its first U.S. location in Manhattan. In Finland, people enjoy a similar coffee break culture with pulla, a buttery Finnish sweet bread scented with cardamom. In the spirit of fika, I decided to make Finnish Cardamom Rolls.
The shape of this cardamom-infused bread is unique to Finland.
Cardamom has been popping up in breads and desserts everywhere over the last few years, although it’s not a spice I’ve used in my kitchen until recently. The taste of cardamom is difficult to describe. It’s complex and can be sweet and spicy at the same time. Many of us probably became acquainted with cardamom in a chai latte. It’s a strong taste and if you’re a bit wary of using it in your baked goods, use ground green cardamom (rather than the pods) for a taste that won’t be overwhelming. It’s said to have a citrus zest to it, but I honestly didn’t get that. When baking with cardamom, the strong, warm aroma fills your house with a deliciousness reminiscent of cinnamon rolls and comfort. Perfect for fika.
Traditional cardamom buns or rolls are less sweet than the frosting-laden cinnamon rolls most Americans are used to eating. I’d say they have just the right hint of sweetness to mix with your morning coffee or afternoon tea. In Finland, cinnamon rolls (called korvapuusti;) use cardamom-spiced dough and are traditionally sprinkled with pearl sugar. My first attempt at cardamom-infused yeasted bread was the recipe from Sylvia at Feasting at Home, which seemed simpler than other variations I found. But what I really liked was the pretty shape. That, and it was a good excuse to buy pearl sugar!
Finnish Cardamom Rolls
Don’t let the shape intimidate you. They’re quite easy to roll and a stand mixer makes this recipe especially easy to make. You first beat the eggs and sugar, then add the milk and yeast mixture, followed by half the flour, butter, cardamom and salt. Then you switch to your mixer’s dough hook and incorporate the rest of the flour until the dough forms a ball. The dough requires two rises; the first is approximately two hours and once you form the rolls, another 40 minutes.
To form the rolls, you divide the dough into four equal pieces. Then one at a time, you roll each piece into a rectangle as thin as you can (approx. 12 x 18 inches). Spread the dough with butter and sprinkle with the cardamom sugar. This is where I couldn’t help it and I added cinnamon to the cardamom filling, similar to this Finnish recipe that uses cardamom in the dough and cinnamon in the filling. Head over to Feasting at home for specific directions and photos on how to roll the log and cut on the diagonal into fat ‘V’ shapes. Once they are done with their second rise, brush the rolls with egg wash and sprinkle with pearl sugar. I recommend Lars Swedish Pearl Sugar (which I happily found at my local grocer). Bake for about 18 minutes and get ready for these pretty little rolls to provide comfort and relaxation.
More fika
Fika is more than a coffee break. It’s a state of mind. And one thing the events of the last year have taught me is that taking the time to slow down for a short period each day is time well spent. I’m going to make an effort to fika with a friend or family member more afternoons than not, even if it’s virtual. Of course that means I’ll be baking more cake, cardamom buns, cinnamon rolls, cookies — you get the idea. Next on my list are these devine Cinnamon and Cardamom Morning Buns made with a yeasted laminated dough (basically croissant or danish dough). The recipe reminds me of the cardamom bun called an “Ocean Roll” that my sister gets on special occasions from Sparrow Bakery in Bend, Oregon. Their version begins with a croissant dough layered with cardamom, sugar and vanilla.
On my to-do list: Fika twice a day like the Swedes. Kaffee und Kuchen with friends. Eat Ocean Rolls with my sister. Enjoy cake and coffee with my neighbor. Set aside intentional time to pause and be grateful. Oh, and eat more cardamom rolls.
Enjoying Kaffe und Kuchen in Nuremberg, Germany with one of my sorority sisters on a cold February day.