Baja California for foodies
Mexico vacations and Cabo San Lucas in particular may conjure up visions of Spring Break for many of us, but there’s more to this beautiful tip of land bordered on one side by the Pacific Ocean and on the other by the Sea of Cortez. In addition to the amazing aqua and turquoise waters and the glorious pink and coral sunrises and sunsets (yes, from the same spot), Cabo is a delightful jumping off point for food adventures.
My husband and I have been lucky to travel to Baja California twice in recent years, both times in March when it was still rainy and cold in the Pacific Northwest. The predictable sunny weather and unpopulated beach at our resting spot on Playa del Solmar meant lazy days spent reading and getting kissed by the sun. Sipping margaritas and piña coladas while keeping an eye out for whales were the loftiest goals we had most days. In the evenings we would venture out to try the local cuisine.
Our first night this time around we dined at Edith's Restaurante, a colorful feast for the eyes. Here they prep Caesar salad tableside according to the original recipe from the Caesar’s Hotel in Tijuana, birthplace of the Caesar Salad. Along with top-notch customer service, locally grown ingredients and freshly caught seafood made our visit one to remember. And, we couldn’t resist ordering the Bananas Foster just for the experience.
Dining with your toes in the sand is required for one night. For this, we passed on the more touristy spots and opted for Tabasco Beach Restaurant Bar. This completely laid back and reasonably priced restaurant serves generous portions of fresh seafood with a gorgeous view of the sunset along Medano Beach.
After a few days of sunshine, we were ready for a day trip to explore more of what the tip of Baja has to offer. On our first trip in 2019 we had discovered Flora Farms, a 25-acre organic working farm in the foothills of the Sierra de la Laguna Mountains. It’s a beautiful 45-minute drive up the Sea of Cortez side to Animas Bajas with two gorgeous Blue Flag-designated beaches (Playa Santa Maria and Playa Chileno) along the way. Because we stopped at the beaches, we didn’t pay attention to the Farm’s hours and barely made it there before they stopped serving lunch. I remember sitting down to a drink and wood fired pizza (the only menu item available at that hour) and pronouncing that I was totally in my element. So, this year, I could not wait to go back.
Glass-blown hearts in vibrant colors hang in Flora’s Field Kitchen restaurant with lush green papaya trees as the backdrop. The peaceful property also includes a bar that serves drinks with fresh herbs and edible flowers captured inside ice spheres, a tempting farmstand, upscale retail shops, a gorgeous spa and 20 “hand-built, straw bale luxury homes for the culinary-inclined.” My heart rate sped up wondering how I would fit it all in, not knowing when I’d be back again.
Food was the first priority. This time around we had the best tuna sandwich I think I’ve ever had. The waiter shared that it was local tuna cooked in olive oil using the Sous Vide method with the addition of fresh dill, fennel and dried chili for a little zing and a zang. Delectable.
Shopping was my next priority. The Anne Sidora Concept Store is where I picked up coffee from Veracruz and specialty tea to take home to my beverage aficionado kids. I also had to splurge on a cup of very rich and dense, house-made chocolaty chocolate ice cream from the Flora Ice Cream Cart. Next visit I’m signing up for a cooking class and farm tour.
Another must-do day trip is Todos Santos, an hour drive up the west side of the peninsula. My husband’s cousins had been to Art & Beer before and were eager to share it with us. This quirky roadside hippy-joint is all about the over-the-top cocktails.
A picture is worth a thousand words:
When we arrived in Todos Santos, our driver primo Marc, took us on an off beaten path and I was so excited to stumble upon La Esquina, a restaurant that I had Googled previously. This breakfast and lunch restaurant is hidden in a relaxing courtyard shaded with mango and papaya trees. The lunch menu included sandwiches, salads and smoothies using locally grown fruits and vegetables that weren't easily found in Todos Santos not too long ago. Similar to Flora Farms, this place was a feast for the palate and the eyes.
Along with the food itself, the colors of Mexico make up the experience. Just walking in the tourist section of Cabo and seeing the colorful peppers smoking on grills along the sidewalk is invigorating. Cabo offers a variety of food and market walking tours, an item on my list for a future visit.
It’s always difficult to say goodbye to Baja. The spirit of Baja keeps pulling me back. Shortly after our return, The Baja California Cookbook by David Castro Hussong, was released and I hurriedly scooped it up. His book explores the underappreciated cuisine of Baja California and will help me keep the spirit of Baja alive in my kitchen.
